Tambopata Jungle

For more info about booking this journey please see http://www.tikatrek.com/en/program/120/tambopata-national-reserve    I did the 4 days 3 nights programme.

I will return to write about my adventures to the Amazon but while I have it clear in my head I would like to write about my latest visit to the jungle of Peru. 

After an apprehensive start to the day we are finally sitting on a BAE 146 on our way to Puerto Maldonado and beyond. We fly over the Andes and down into the jungle over the massive river. I am really excited. 

We are going to stay at 2 different lodges as part of our ever increasing efforts to search out the best vacations in Peru. 

The first is the Explorers Inn in the Tambpata/Candamo reserve it has about 50kms of trails and a wealth of monkeys, birds and all sorts of flora and fauna. 

Upon arrival to the airport we are taken on a small van for the 45 mins to the jungle port of Infierno (literally hell) and onto our motorized canoe for the one and half hour journey through the rain forest to the Explorers Inn. 

The EI (Explorers Inn) is the oldest lodge in the area and they are the custodians of the park, there are around 1200 types of butterfly and 103 mammals, quite impressive i say. 

Upon arrival you are given a bit of time to relax and visit their medicinal garden or just hang out and watch the bird and animal life in the main garden before trekking approx 1 km to the 43metre high view tower that was built by a local University for research purposes. It took 15 men 5 months to bring all the material from the river to the erection site. 

The view is spectacular with the mountains of Puno in the background.  On the way back to the lodge a bit of night time wildlife spotting, lots of spiders, toads and frogs. 

Also the best site we had was a porcupine which was under one of the huts. Here you go to bed really early due to the 4.30am start. 

Just as well I was sleeping at 8.30pm as it is 4.40am and time to get organized, its breakfast and out the door by 5.30am for our 11km walk to the lake and back. 

The path is pretty muddy due to the it being the end of the rainy season but all is forgiven as we see a family of Tamarind monkeys playing in the trees. 

About 5 mins after arriving to the lake the resident family of giant otters makes a fleeting appearance, there is meant to be a healthy family of 8 living at the lake. 

We head back without the guide and the other clients through the forest along the main trail with all its very fun mud. 

I spend the afternoon listening to the sound of the jungle, there is nothing quite like it. 

In the evening we are out and about for some caiman searching in the canoe along the banks of the river. Saw a couple of big ones. 

The following day a lie in for our 5 am start to the parrot clay lick. This is quite a site to see, so much noise many different parrots and also toucans until a Manco comes out of the bushes and scares them all away. 

Later in the day we head off to a local farm, we see Tapir footprints apart from any different types of fruit and vegetable that are grown in the jungle. In the afternoon not a lot as it is ridiculously hot. Another early night for our departure tomorrow morning. 

I would like to thank the owner and staff of Explorers Inn for the fantastic time that we had at the lodge and hope to be back again in the not so distant future. 

www.tikatrek.com   

Kirigeti, Quillabamba to Iquitos Part 3

I wake in the middle of the night in the village of Kirigeti. Its dark out but I have my torch as I need to be on the lookout for snakes, spiders and any other creepy crawlies that may be about. Life here begins about 5am, I can hear the kids running outside the tent. 4 young boys and a month old baby called Rebecca all with mum and dad. 

They are extremely curious as you can imagine they don’t see a whole lot of white people down here, we are a long way form any central place and probably 2 days from the closest police station, hospital or anything similar. 

The family close by is staying in the communal room, it is a small hut, with a mattress or maybe an old metal bed that is available from any travellers of the same tribes, on occasion you are allowed to stay in them as a foreign traveller, they are available in most communities. 

They are watching as I make food, they watch the camping stove and chatter away in their own language, laughing the whole time. I offered them some hot chocolate and bread and they devour it, a big hit. 

I go for a walk and come to the control post of where they measure the speed of the boats that are going up and down the river, the have speed limits.  The reason that a child has been killed on the banks of the river when a speed boat went past, there is quite a flow of traffic due to the gas plant that is in the area.

During the day the Ashaninkas become braver coming to touch my things and see what they do,  I get all packed up and get a lift on the local tractor to the beach.

I sit on the bank of the river waiting for a boat to come even though the locals say no its too late. A boat finally arrives that is going to Sepahua, next destination, its different to the canoes I am used to its more a little speedboat. 

Quillabamba to Iquitos part 2

day 4
Got up and packed, had coffee egg sandwich and coffee and go and find a boat, luckily there is one departing in 30 mins. Funny boat Evangelists stopping all over the place to organise their meeting for the night in Bajo Pongo. Stopped at schools, houses, town.
We passed the Pongo in high waters, highest I have ever seen. The Evangelists (yes there were some interesting conversations) dropped me off on a beach to wait for the next boat that was coming past.
As I get on the next boat I realise everyone is very drunk, they are a group from the ministry of health that come to do 2 month health camoaigns in the jungle, there are 2 docs, 1 gyne and a lab technician. With them I pass the Machuiguenga village of Timpia and Las Malvinas (the town where they extract the Camisea gas) and end up in the village if Camisea. The village is about 20 metres above the river which is a nightmare with luggage but we all settle into the school for the night.

Day 5.
Got up ridiculously early, not sure why as the docs seem to take forever, so I used it as an opportunity to take photos before jumping back on our 20 metre canoe to the town of Kirigeti a small Machuiguenga community.
Quickly dumped stuff before heading to the village of Nueva Luz where there isa a reasonable size shop to stock up.
When I get back to Kirigeti I take advantage of the small river to do some washing and freshen up as the heat is infernal.
Walk about and meet another boatman as I am leaving the doctors and heading further north to Nuevo Mundo, also the first time I get to try masato the fermented mandioc drink, interesting.
Tomorrow further north.

Quillabamba to Iquitos Part 1

This time in my wee blog I thought it might be nice to start writing down stuff from the diary I made in October 2004 (I think) of a crazy trip I took into the jungle for a month living on cow and pirate boats. People have often asked me about the trip so time to get it written down.

Sun 17th October

After an interesting bus trip with women of all ages selling gaseosas and choclo con queso and me under the influence of a valium I slept until I arrived in Quillabamba. A quick taxi ride with my 5 million (only actually 5 but feels like 5 million) bags until I get to the good old Alto Urubamba hostal. I fall into bed as it is 4am and doze in the humid airless room until 9am.
I have a quick shower, cold but refreshing, it is a shock to the system but you do get used to it. After a quickie breakfast I hit the swimming pool at Sambaray, a pretty sports complex on the banks of the Urubamba river. A quiet afternoon and an early night in the stiffling heat.

Mon 18th October
Last minute shopping, packing, bus tickets to be bought and a couple of beers before starting on this crazy trip about 2500kms throught the jungle and past the old penal colony of Peru. A moment of fear realising that I am heading off into the unknown. Yikey.
Got on the chicken bus which took forever and also stopped at a party in a small village where the driver got out for a couple of hours, doesn't really install much confidence does it.

Tue 19th October
Its my birthday and well I woke with a shock. The bus had arrived but not to the door, a long bridge had to be crossed, so I stood beside the bus and organised my things ready to cross the bridge however as I am waiting I hear a rumbling noise move a little to the side and a tree comes crashing down the hill, thank goodness I moved or I would be well not here I reckon, the bus roof was caved in and the windows broken and I was covered in leaves. Happy birthday Fiona.

I finally make it to the village and dump all my stuff at the hostel while I wait for a boat going to bajo Pongo. Boats are not daily and you just have to wait so while I waited I went off to the pool in the river to cool off and also to get out of town. Ivochote is the weirdest little town has one street going up the middle with 4 sad looking little shops and hotels

Tomorrow I will continue on my journey, I get on the Evangelists boat.

Machu Picchu

One of my favourite places in the entire world, all my friends think I am mad but honestly anytime I get the opportunity I am off. I dont do Huayna Picchu anymore (got a touch of vertigo) but I have walked the length and breadth of Machu Picchu more than once and still love doing it.

Many people that come to see Machu Picchu do a bog standard tour of about 3 hours, which seems ridiculous to me as you have to travel 8 hours (total) from Cusco to get to it. So here at Tika Trek we like to offer our clients a different tour of Machu Picchu, either arrive at night so you have a whole day to visit or come for 2 days, there is really enough to see and do to spend the 2 days. I personally enjoy sitting in the Industrial Zone with my shoes off looking out over the Urubamba river. (nobody really goes to this area so you feel completely on your own).

I also enjoy a short walk to the Inca bridge which is well worth a visit just to see the amazing engineering feat of a bridge and walkway carved into the mountain, not sure I would want to walk along it though.

You can also take off upto the Sun Gate or for the more adventurous a trip to Machu Picchu mountain, how about a visit in March as the orchids are out in full force.

So remember when you want to visit the citadel of Machu Picchu, we at Tika Trek are ready to assist.

www.tikatrek.com   www.tikasoapperu.com

Azul Wasi boys home

As always on the search for new things to do, see and experience in Cusco we went off to see the Blue House (Azul Wasi) in Oropesa. A few friends had recommended it to me so we jumped on a bus and headed south to  the bread town (they are famous for their bread) and into the country to the 3000ms2 area that is Azul Wasi. 

The home is quite unlike many others as for a start it doesnt have walls which is great means the guys are not forced to live there. There are 15 boys between the ages of 8 and 15 that live in the house andt hey have been sent here either via the court system or a family member has brought them. They have a variety of reasons for being there and are all happy with the treatment they recieve. 

The house was set up about 5 years ago by an x policeman as a safe refuge for boys from all over the South of Peru. The are schooled, fed and looked after but this can sometimes be a struggle as it costs approximately $1300US per month to look after the boys. 

They have a greenhouse and gardens to help with the feeding but this is sometimes not enough, how would you like to come and volunteer here. If there are only one or two of you there is room available, if there are more you can bring (or rent) your tent or set up camp in the TV room, and you can share meal times with the boys. 

Maybe you would like to do an event at home so that they can do some more building, their office is pretty much falling down. or what about just coming for a visit and getting to know the boys and using your time in Peru doing something a bit different. 

Peru Scotland.

Lesser known sites in Cusco

Good morning world, thought it might be nice to blog about some lesser known sites in Cusco as I wait for the arrival of our coconut oil from the jungle.

One of my personal favourites (apart from Machu Picchu) is the delightful water temple of Tipon. Situated approximately 23 kms from Cusco at a height of 3500ms .

At present to arrive at the site you must take a 5km drive up a very bumpy road.  This is being rectified and will be a proper road in June 2012 which should assist tourism to the area.

Upon arrival you can begin to enter the park by the stairs passing small waterfalls until you enter the site which is a remarkable engineering feat with a myriad of water fountains and 12 terraces.  It is thought that the water that runs through the entire park comes from an underground lake.  A true delight to visit.

There is also the possibility of walking up an original Inca trail which is located on the north side of the site. This is a little harder but well worth it.

Another interesting thing about Tipon is the village which is on the main highway. Known as the place to eat guinea pig (locally known as CUY) the village is full of small family run restaurants that dedicate their time to preparing the Peruvian delicacy. It’s a very popular place for local people at the weekend and probably the best place to try authentic guinea pig.

For the opportunity to visit Tipon and some other sites in the Southern Valley have a look at http://www.tikatrek.com/en/program/96/southern-valley-1-day-tour  

And remember to get some soap www.tikasoapperu.com